The Last Judgement of the Duomo, Florence, Italy

Vasari's depiction of demons tormenting the damned. One of the many such images on the interior of the Duomo of Florence, Italy.
Vasari's depiction of demons tormenting the damned. One of the many such images of the Last Judgement on the interior of the Duomo of Florence, Italy.

There's a lot of debate about the Vasari paintings that cover Florence. I think the safest thing to say about Giorgio Vasari was that he was a better businessman than a painter. He got the best commissions of the day, including the Duomo and the majority of the Palazzo Vecchio.

This post is part of our Italy Travel Guide for Travelers Over 50 — including our complete guide to Florence, Rome, Venice, Puglia, and beyond.

The Church fathers of Florence, of course, belong in a depiction of the Last Judgement.
The Church fathers of Florence, of course, belong in a depiction of the Last Judgement.

In this case, the interior of the dome of the main Florence Cathedral, known as the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, or simply the Duomo, was originally left undecorated until Grand Duke Cosimo I de' Medici commissioned these murals after the cathedral was consecrated.

A rather gentler portion of Vasari's Last Judgement on the ceiling of the Duomo of Florence.
A rather gentler portion of Vasari's Last Judgement on the ceiling of the Duomo of Florence.

Compared to the other Renaissance masters of Italy, Vasari's work just doesn't hold up to that of Michelangelo, Titian, or Raphael. But nevertheless, he got the work. And if you go to Florence, you can't really avoid it.

So here are some details of his frescoes on the interior of the Duomo of Florence. The fresco is a wild contrast to the rest of the stark decoration of the interior of the church, which was influenced by the mad monk's Girolamo Savonarola‘s puritanical preachings. But, Savonarola's reign was violent and, thankfully, brief, and excess again prevailed. Too bad this particular example of Mannerist excess is so out of character with the rest of the church, but at least you can't really see the detail unless you climb the 300 or so stairs to the gallery.

More of Vasari's (and Dante's) demons on the ceiling of Florence's Duomo.
More of Vasari's (and Dante's) demons on the ceiling of Florence's Duomo.

Which I did. When you get there, though, the view of the paintings is obscured a good deal by a plexiglass shield that I'm sure is there to keep people from jumping. Unfortunately, it hasn't been cleaned in years, so much of your view of the frescoes is quite dissolved into a fuzzy obscurity. The only way to get a look like this is to stand on your tippy toes, reach as high as you can, and point your camera over the plexiglass toward the art. Pray your autofocus is accurate, and this is what you get. Oh, and it's not really lit at all either, so the ISO is rather high. Hence the grain.

But, you do get this vision, especially the one of the demons, which is probably more Dante's than Vasari's. And one should always pay attention to Dante's visions, if not for their expression here, at least for their influence on the faithful to this day.

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