Summer in Vail, Colorado: Best Things to Do Off-Season

We're drawn to Colorado's Rocky Mountains in the summer and fall. Sure, we've enjoyed winter ski trips, but our happy time in Colorado falls in the ‘off-season' when there are fewer visitors and more opportunities to enjoy the fresh mountain air and breathe in the smell of pines. This is when Colorado's imposing Rocky Mountain landscape really comes into focus.

In early June, we visited Vail to explore the Bavarian-style village, local food, and nearby adventures. It was our first visit to Vail – just three days – but enough time to get a taste of the cultural highlights of this central Colorado town. Located about midway between Denver and Grand Junction in the White River National Forest, at an elevation of 8,200 feet, Vail sans visitors is a thriving community of about 5,000 residents.

Vail Village is arranged around a pedestrian-centered system, connecting accommodations, dining, shopping, scenic creek-side walks, and world-class cultural and sporting events in the most convenient way. While the village manages to host some 2.8 million guests annually, the town will always be about the outdoor activities – blended with hospitality.

History of Vail

The history of Vail is not too complicated, nor too lengthy. The ski resort was founded in 1962, and the town of Vail incorporated in 1966. The story, however, is a good one. During World War II, Camp Hale, located about 15 miles from present-day Vail, was the training site of the U.S. Army’s 10th Mountain Division, an infantry group trained for combat in rugged mountain conditions. Many from Camp Hale fought in important battles in Northern Italy and Austria in 1944-1945.

After the war, Pete Seibert (who went on to become a professional skier) and others from the division returned to Eagle Valley with the idea of opening a ski resort. Initially, skiers were shuttled up the mountain with one gondola lift and two ski lifts and could find accommodations in the brand-new developing village at the base.

About the same time, civil engineer Charles Vail was working on the new U.S. Highway 6 through Eagle Valley, hence the name. Over time, housing for locals and visiting skiers stretched to the east and west, and the original resort village was supplemented with the adjacent Lionshead area, also designed around broad pedestrian streets and plazas. (Lionshead was named for a familiar rock outcropping on the west side of Vail. A chunk of that has since broken off, so use your imagination.)

While Vail's local population remains steady, Eagle County continues to grow (population around 55,000), in part to serve Vail resorts. The ski resort is now one of the biggest in the world, with over 5,300 acres of ski terrain. The summit is at 11,500 feet, offering over 3,000 vertical feet of skiing, snowboarding, and, for that matter, hiking and mountain biking.

Vail's Summertime Outdoor Adventures

To discover Vail in the summertime means embracing the scenery and experiencing a variety of outdoor adventures. Whether you are taking it easy with a stroll along Gore Creek or racing down the mountain by bicycle, it’s the environs that speak to visitors year round. Here’s a sampling of summertime outdoor adventures.

Hiking

For us, there’s no greater pleasure than hitting the mountainside trails. Vail has infinite choices. Guides, guidebooks, and well-posted trail markers make hiking here popular and fun. Some trails can be accessed by riding the gondola to the top, others follow creeks, wend their way to mountain lakes, or afford gorgeous views back to the ski area. Most trailheads are easily accessed by car, if not by the ski lifts.

The massive White River National Forest is the host of all these trails. Though the trails are well-marked, don’t be fooled. This is wilderness, and you are sharing the area with bears, moose, butterflies, and endangered plants, among thousands of other species. Prepare accordingly and pack out any and all waste.

Starting near Minturn, we took it easy and followed the Grouse Creek Trail up to about 9,000 feet. Our short visit meant we were still adjusting to the altitude, so we took it slow, pausing for photos or closer looks at leaves, petals, bugs, and tracks to justify our stopping to catch our breath. We had the good fortune, and good sense, to hike with a guide from Paragon Guides who could answer our many questions about the area and ecosystem. Paragon, by the way, keeps llamas and leads back country llama hikes, too.

Mountain Biking

There's a mountain bike activity for all ages and levels. Maybe you are the sort of biker who wants to summit the peaks. For the rest of us, there is lift access to the top of Vail Mountain. Stay a while and enjoy the views and then take the Vail Pass bike route downhill from the summit.

Another option is to head to Sage Outdoor Adventures to join an e-bike tour of the valley. This is a good option for family or groups of varying bike abilities.

Several locations in Lionshead and Vail rent bikes for some cruising along the excellent paths in town. And for longer hauls, the bike paths from Breckenridge to Aspen are nearly complete, with only a couple sections still sharing the road with cars.

Fishing and Rafting

We visited early in June when the creeks and rivers were roaring. Right outside our balcony, Gore Creek rushed over and around rocks, through the village, beneath the trees and gondola, and on to the Eagle River, which eventually flows into the Colorado River. The clear cold snow-melt waters are beautiful. Local outfitters can help you enjoy your riverside time even more: try fly fishing or rafting. If you haven’t tried either before, just join up with a guide and you’ll see the river and world from a new perspective.

Golf

With another day, I’d have enjoyed a round of golf at Vail Golf Club. My idea of a good golf outing is directly proportional to the views I can take in, so I’d be happy with any of the seven courses nearby. Take your pick. In the thin air, it’s fun to see some extra distance on those shots.

More: Horseback Riding, Off-Roading, Camping, and Family Fun

For more back country thrills, find guided horseback riding for all levels, or choose a back country guided 4×4 Jeep adventure. Outfitters can help set you up, provide guides, and assure that you are properly prepared. We recommend making your inquiries and reservations prior to arrive. Families will definitely want to explore the Vail Mountain Adventure Pass, which includes a roller coaster, zipline, climbing walls, and more.

Attractions

Many of Vail’s best attractions still connect visitors with the outdoors, but don’t require daring physical effort.

Botanic Gardens and Nature Centers

Betty Ford Alpine Gardens is the highest botanical garden in the U.S. Take a couple hours to visit the garden and read the excellent signs describing the ways in which plants survive and thrive in severe alpine conditions. It’s calm, pretty, and interesting, and supported by rotating displays in the education center with gift shop.

Opening soon is the new Vail Arts Center, which will serve as the base for Vail’s popular “Art in Public Places” program. An interesting display at the Gardens' entrance describes President Gerald Ford and Betty Ford’s involvement in the Vail and Beaver Creek area, a second home to them. Their generosity made possible most of the cultural venues and arts series in Vail.

Vail Nature Center

Next door to Betty Ford is Vail Nature Center. Besides featuring a preserved 1940s homestead, the Nature Center is the perfect place to learn about Vail’s miles of trails, especially along Gore Creek. Check calendars for all sorts of special interest programs: birding, beaver pond tours (yes!), stargazing, wildflower viewing and other nature tours.

Colorado Ski and Snowboard Museum

We’re glad we found time to duck into this small but mighty Colorado Snowsports Museum in Vail’s transportation center. It chronicles the founding of Vail with a fascinating film about the Camp Hale 10th Mountain Division. The 45-minute film, “Climb to Glory,” was made by Jeremy Bloom, himself an Olympic skier and Museum inductee. Bloom donned the dated equipment and 100-pound packs used by the military in the 1940s  to discover just how difficult it was to ski in those conditions. The museum tracks the history of ski gear and fashion as well as the birth and development of snowboarding.

Ride the Gondola and Epic Mountain Activities

Ride Eagle Bahn Gondola to the top of the mountain. Arrive at Adventure Ridge atop Vail Mountain for great views and Epic Discovery Activities. Choose from mountain coasters, ziplines, tubing, mini-golf, climbing walls and more. Or nature enthusiasts will appreciate a visit to the Nature Discovery Area to get the most out of treks across the mountain. This all-ages amusement area takes full advantage of nature's playground, and it's open June through early September.

Summer Cultural Events and Festivals

Even though the timing of our visit didn’t coincide with the summer's live music and festival events in Vail, we learned just how important these events are for visitors and locals. I was impressed that we heard from locals (a young guide and a well-traveled shuttle driver, for example) who were anticipating this summer’s Music and Dance Festivals.

Bravo! Vail Music Festival

Featuring world-class orchestras (e.g. The Philadelphia Orchestra and Dallas Symphony) and highly regarded string quartets, the Bravo! Festival is presented in various locations like Eagle Park, Borgen Plaza, and the Gerald R Ford Amphitheater. There's even a related “Little Listeners” series for children in the local library. Late June to early August.

Vail Dance Festival

This internationally acclaimed series of dance performances, established more than 35 years ago, features the world’s top dancers and choreographers. It’s well worth planning ahead to book your summer travels around your favorite performers.

Vail Farmers’ Market & Art Show

Combining all our favorite things: local food, crafts, and music are integral to Vail's Farmers' Market and Art Show. Mid June to early October.

Hot Summer Nights Concert Series

Presented at the Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater. Relax at these outdoor concerts while you gaze at the scenery – or people – around you. Best with a snack and beverage in hand.

GoPro Mountain Games

The weekend before our arrival, the GoPro Mountain Games drew tens of thousands to Vail. The town was still abuzz when we arrived, feeding off the energy of white-water rafting, speed climbing, running, biking, and more. Great spectating! Most remarkable is the inclusion of both amateur and pros.

Art in Public Places Walking Tours

Maybe frequent visitors don’t notice the art scattered around Vail. Some 60 works of sculpture dot the main streets, adding to the window shopping effect of the resort village. Self-guided or guided tours are available. Use this interactive guide for virtual or self-guided tours, or hook up with a weekly guided walking tour to learn more. For casual viewing, each installation is labeled on site, too.

New: Artisan Rhapsody

Look for details on the new Artisan Rhapsody event. It promises to carry Vail's festival season into September with a lux fashion, art and culinary event.

Shopping

Though some shops may have restricted hours in summer, it’s fun to browse the assortment of boutiques, high-end sporting goods, and assorted art galleries. Shopping or wandering the pedestrian streets of Vail is a treat unto itself, as the streets are lined with flowers and landscaped plots, rock gardens, small plazas, and inviting sidewalk cafes.

Coffee Restaurants and Bars

We did our best with limited time to visit a range of eateries. We think we hit some winners! Besides these selections, you’ll come upon a nice range restaurants featuring international fare located right along the pedestrian way in both Vail Village and the adjacent Lionshead Village. And when you travel in summer, the ‘off-season’, it’s that much easier to get a table.

The Little Diner. Start your day off right in a friendly place all the locals recommend. Trusted sources say the Huevos Rancheros are the bomb. Located at the Lionshead Plaza bus stop, The Little Diner serves breakfast all day and lunch from 11:30 a.m.

Two Arrows Coffee Bar is just that, an all-day and into-the-night joint that serves up coffee drinks and cocktails.

Mountain Standard. Tucked behind Sweet Basil (and by the same ownership), this is the relaxed version of Vail’s top cuisine, featuring wood-fired grills and rotisseries. We’re happy at the bar here, enjoying cocktails and light bites while watching kids play next to Gore Creek that runs behind it.

Sweet Basil. Do make reservations here, because Sweet Basil lives up to is Michelin recommendation. The cocktail menu is itself award-winning; I sampled The Lawman, an exceptional Famous Grouse Scotch cocktail with a hint of tobacco and just a touch of banana. So tasty. Drool over the menu. Many of the “Bites” can serve as a main dish, or are light enough to lead into an entrée. We can recommend the South Carolina Quail, the ahi tuna crudo, and the halibut, and were sorry we didn’t have room for the delicious-looking Ricotta and Pea Raviolo.

Garfinkel’s. When you just want to relax, any time of day, check out Garfinkel’s, a sports bar, an institution, and probably the best place to hang while keeping the Eagle Bahn Gondola in sight. Find really good salads, besides the sports bar fare.

Casa Jalisca. The real deal, authentic South of the Border eats. The menu is large. We say go for house specialties like Pollo Chipotle, yum.

Annapurna Vail. Only slightly off the beaten path, in the Evergreen Lodge, is this unassuming dining room serving up excellent Nepali and Indian Cuisine.

We really wanted to try food and drinks at a couple other spots, but our timing was off! So as not to forget, here are some we’ll prioritize next time:
Tavernetta at Four Seasons Vail. Newly opened in Vail, this Michelin Star northern Italian restaurant is a good reason to wander through the appealing Four Seasons hotel. At least make a stop at the spritz window for a quick “après-tivo.”

Avanti Food and Beverage is Vail’s new food hall, now open at Golden Peak.

Vintage Vail is a French brasserie-style restaurant serving champagne brunch. Sorry to miss this trusty brunch icon.

Where to Stay

We stay in the Lionshead area, in Antlers at Vail. This was a great choice for us, because it represents one of the first and only properties that is fully resident-owned, condo style. The well-equipped apartment units, with nice living quarters and plenty of bedroom options, feel like home. At the same time, Antlers provides resort-like services, an outdoor swimming pool, and a helpful front desk.

Other options range from boutique lodges to top tier hotels and resorts. See Vail lodging options here.

To take advantage of some of Vail’s top spa services, explore the facilities at these highly touted hotels, all centrally located.
The Sebastian Vail
Four Seasons Vail
Sonnenalp Hotel
The Hythe Vail, Marriott’s Luxury Collection

Getting Around

One of the most appealing things about Vail is that no car is needed. (Even if you drive there, just park your vehicle and forget it until your departure.)
Vail Village and Lionshead are connected by a free, comfortable bus that runs about every 10 minutes and has frequent stops. So convenient. Additional buses serve East and West Vail neighborhoods. The bus stops display minutes to arrival of the next bus so you are not left wondering. Ask for route info from your lodging, or read the signs at primary stops.

When to Go and Vail Travel Tips

First, consider that Vail's summer/fall season is from mid-June to early October. When we visited in early June, Vail was still transitioning to full summer hours, with gondolas running up to feed the Epic Discovery activities and mountaintop dining. July into August is peak festival season. Early September finds lighter crowds, more fall foliage, but fewer events.

Summer weather is pleasant with high temps in the 70s and 80s, but mountain mornings and evenings can be brisk, so pack layers and sunscreen. Vail averages 250 sunny days per year; don’t forget your hat and sunglasses. Remember, too, that Vail sits at an elevation of 8,200 feet (year round!). Prepare for the high altitude by hydrating before and during your trip and easing into your activities. Pack a rain jacket and waterproof hiking shoes.

How to Get to Vail

Fly direct to Eagle County Airport (EGE), about 30 minutes from Vail, from major U.S. hubs. In summer, American Airlines flies from Dallas and United flies to EGE from Denver. In season, you’ll find direct flights from more than a dozen cities. Or fly to Denver and enjoy a scenic two-hour drive or shuttle from there.

From either airport you can rely on Vail’s own shuttle service, Epic Mountain Express. We had great service and helpful reminders both coming and going, with delivery and pick-up directly to our doorstep.

Ready to Discover Vail?

Vail isn’t just a winter playground. It has developed into a summer sanctuary filled with alpine adventure, cultural highlights, and mountain charm. While the face of the ski mountain is a constant reminder of Vail's origins, a summer retreat to Vail will reveal that it's a genuine year-round destination. We have avoided the popular (over-used) use of the adjective ‘elevated' to describe Vail adventures, cocktails, menus, fashion, and culture. But we will admit there is some mountain magic at play here.

For more about visiting Vail off-season, listen to our interview on Travel Writers Radio:

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