On our first night in Jerusalem, Kris was ill, so I went out to explore the old city on my own. Jerusalem is an odd place, and probably the most tension filled city we've been in. The divide between the factions is palpable, and the friction among Jews, Christians, and Muslims is both symbolized, and verbalized, by almost anyone you ask.
As I approached the Western Wall, the most sacred site of Judaism, which is right under the Dome of the Rock, which is one of the most sacred sites of Islam, the tension ramped up even more.
To get to the area of the Wall, you have to pass through a metal detector manned by Israeli soldiers. As I was walking towards the checkpoint, a Palestinian boy about 14 years old did the usual and unwelcome showing me the way and asking for money for doing so. I gave him five shekels, which is about a dollar.
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When I came up the the detector, the young Israeli soldier, who looked about 18, said to me, “Don't give those dirty Arabs any money. Next time one asks you for money, give him a slug in the stomach.” I replied, “I'll leave that to you,” and went on.
As I actually approached the Wall, an orthodox man approached me and quizzed me about my religious beliefs and proffered some literature, which I would diplomatically say was pro-Israel. He explained that Jews prayed at the Western Wall because it was as close as they could get to the site of the original temple, which was destroyed by the Romans in 70 CE. The temple site is now occupied by the Dome of the Rock and Al Aqsa mosques.
“We'd like to worship here in peace,” he said. “But those people above,” he said, pointing his chin at the Dome, “won't let us.”
“Maybe that day will come when all three religions who profess to believe in the same God will let Jerusalem live in peace,” I replied, not really believing that it will ever happen.
Really interesting post and great picture (as usual). And of course women must pray elsewhere, I believe.
Thanks, Debra. And yes, the women pray in a separate area, just to the right of where the men go. There’s a dividing wall between them. The women’s area is about a third of the size of the men’s area.
Tom
great photo as usual, lots of darkness there. I’m sure a tour of tunnel underneath is on your agenda but well worth it. We did it years ago and then just again in May when it has expanded and was excellent. We also had the privilege of going into the Dome of the Rock (don’t ask) years back, was something that will not be forgotten. Yes a tension filled city but what a city. the color of the stone always, always amazes me. I just can’t stop looking at it.
enjoy
Jane, unfortunately, we’re no longer in Jerusalem. Our time there was shorter than we would have liked, so we’ll have to go back to catch a few things we missed.