Lisbon, day 2, was a lot like day 1, except we did some of the usual tourist things, which, in our case, meant taking the tram out to the Belém barrio to check out the Unesco World Heritage Sites of the Tower of Belém and the Monastery of the Jeronomite monks.
Now, I”m told, the Jeronomite monks don’t exist any more. Their order was dissolved for some reason or another by the Portuguese kings early in the nineteenth century. (You can look up the history here.) And, again according to the Wikipedia history, the place began to deteriorate until the government finally realized that there’s money to be made by preserving a country’s patrimony, and the Monastery was renovated and preserved.
Today, we have the monastery pretty much as it was, and that’s a cloister that’s full of my favorite kind of imaginative wacky church art and a church which is also home to some of my other favorite kind of church art–really bloody images of the crucifixion of Jesus as well as other masochistic martyrdoms. What better sort of decoration for an order of monks whose patron is almost always depicted contemplating a skull? I love intense Catholic iconography.
As a bonus in the church, you also get the tomb of the great Portuguese explorer, Vasco de Gama. He was a contemporary of Christopher Columbus. While Columbus was tooling around the Americas, de Gama was the first to go the other direction and sail around Africa to India to cash in on the silk and spice trade from the Orient. If you know your European commercial history, until that time the Venetians had monopolized the overland routes from Europe to the east, so getting there via another route was a really big deal for Portugal and enriched them for centuries.
So, wander around the preserved monastery and laugh and cringe, respectively, at the imagery you find there. It is, after church after church after church in Europe, worth the visit for that. And then after, you can move on to another part of the monastery that I actually find infinitely more interesting than mere Christianity–the part of the monastery that was turned into the Portuguese Maritime Museum.
Portugal, arguably, was the greatest of the Renaissance maritime countries. Spain, of course, made it to the Americas but so did Portugal. (Brazil speaks Portuguese, you know.) And England’s seafaring preeminence came later. Portugal also made a much bigger impression than Spain in Asia and Africa. (Azores, Angola, Macao, Timor, etc.) Hell, one of their kings was called Henry the Navigator. Magellan was Portuguese. And, of course, there was the above mentioned de Gama.
The Maritime Museum is mostly full of models of various Portuguese ships over the ages, since, of course, actual wooden ships that have been battered by the elements don’t usually survive for 500 years. Nevertheless, the models are amazingly constructed and of such a size and detail that you can get a very good idea of what the originals would have looked like, and how it would have been so treacherous to sail upon them. Displayed together with various artifacts of the age and you get a very nice picture of a time when better men than we dared to do remarkable things.
So, take some time with the monastery, but spend more in the Maritime Museum. I wish we’d allotted our time thus, but we didn’t even discover the Maritime wing until we’d frittered away way too much time in the cloister and church and only had half an hour for the ships before closing. I wish we’d done it the other way around. True tales of great men are much more interesting that imaginary ones of ascetic saints.
Postscript: I also like to visit forts. The Torre de Belém is also a World Heritage Site and just down the road a few hundred meters from the Monastery. You can buy a combo ticket to visit it along with the Monastery for 16€. It’s kind of fun to climb around on. The Portuguese used it to guard the entrance to the harbor of Lisbon. Not sure what good it did for that, but it’s nice to look at.
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